Jay McInerney: Our teetotaler-in-chief’s wines lack “personality”

Former literary bad boy turned wine snob, Jay McInerney knows a thing or two about the history of vino. And he says, whatever your beef with President Donald Trump, it matters that he doesn’t drink.

Other American president have given up the bottle, but only after years of abusing it. And our founding fathers, including Franklin, Washington and Jefferson, lapped the stuff up. Kennedy like Petrus. Nixon swilled Château Margaux. And Reagan brought California wines like George de Latour Private Reserve to the White House.

But our last three presidents have been somewhat disappointing for oenophiles. George W. claimed to have given up drinking — a shame since he was a hilarious drunk (see video below). Barack Obama drank beer. And Trump — like any good dealer — doesn’t get high on his own supply. He just thinks wine is “on brand,” so he picked up a Virginia vineyard for pennies on the dollar during the recession.

So what is Trump’s wine actually like? McInerney fills us in.

The wines “bearing the Trump name, aren’t terrible, although they don’t have much personality,” McInerney writes in Town and Country. “The 2013 sauvignon blanc ($22), though well made, doesn’t have any perceptible varietal character. The 2009 Trump blanc de blanc ($24) is a respectable sparkler that’s more prosecco than Pol Roger; the 2013 New World Reserve is an oaky Bordeaux blend that delivers less than the $30 price tag promises. The good news is that none of them made me want to quit drinking, dye my hair, deny climate change, or, well—you get the idea.”