“If Derek Zoolander opened a bodega, this is what it would look like”

These days it seems like there is a fancy food hall on every corner. Places where the cost of a salad approaches $20 and specialty foods have become staples are now, alas, the norm. And one of the latest such markets is Clover Grocery on Sixth Avenue near Houston Street. While it might be heaven-sent to downtown’s uber-trendy fashion set, longtime locals are rolling their eyes.

“The items on offer are so confusingly esoteric — packages of “marine collagen” mingle with wild pili nuts — you need a glossary to understand which orifice you should shove them into,” Kristen Fleming, a longtime neighborhood local, writes in the New York Post. “If Derek Zoolander opened a bodega, this is what it would look like.”

The grocery is an offshoot of Cafe Clover, a nearby restaurant. Fleming says she is under no illusion that her neighborhood on the border of Soho and the West Village is the kind of place that can support discount shopping anymore, but what happened to normal groceries?

Markets like this sell potatoes for $3 a piece and refuse to price most things, because “what could a banana cost, $10?”

We’re all for high-end specialty shops, but we all need a good old fashioned connivance store.