Dorothy Parker had the right idea when she famously wrote, “Three be the things I shall never attain: envy, content and sufficient champagne.” True dat – one can never pop enough bottles.
If Parker were alive today she would probably want to head to Paris to hunt down France’s most unique bubbly: Champagne Récoltant-Manipulant (RM), also known as grower champagne, or champagne propriétaire. Because artisanal anything these days is de rigueur, these wineries that use grapes from a single source to make the nectar of the gods are highly coveted, and giving the bigger name producers stiff competition.
Vogue explains that Champagne RM varies widely between producers and vintages unlike the large champagne houses. “It’s a true product of the land,” said Pierre Bérot, the wine director at that Paris restaurant icon Taillevent. “The region has exceptional terroirs, and champagne propriétaire allows us to taste these extraordinary wines, with all their varied differences.”
For now it appears that Paris is keeping this tasty little secret to themselves. Champagne RM still only accounts for 10 percent of market, so while growing in popularity, only a handful of bars carry it. If lucky enough to hop on the Concorde (we hear service may return) to commence “poppin champagne like [you] won a championship game” hit up these establishments: Dilettantes, Ici-Même, Les Caves de Prague, Legrand Filles et Fils, Ma Cave Fleury and Les 110 de Taillevent.